I am offering this pattern for individual use, only. Please do not use this pattern in any way, to make a profit, unless you have my consent.Limerick Hat
Experience Level: Advanced
Sizes: teen/adult
Materials:
300 yards worsted weight yarn
Size 6 straight or circular needles
Size 8 straight or circular needles
Size 8 double pointed needles
Cable needle
Circular ring marker
Darning needle
300 yards worsted weight yarn
Size 6 straight or circular needles
Size 8 straight or circular needles
Size 8 double pointed needles
Cable needle
Circular ring marker
Darning needle
Gauge: 10 sts/14 rows=2” in St st using smaller needles. Your row gauge is more important, in this pattern, than your stitch gauge.
Special Instructions:
C6F: Transfer next 3 sts to cable needle and hold them in front of work. Knit next 3 sts. Knit 3 sts from cable needle.
C6B: Transfer next 3 sts to cable needle and hold them in back of work. Knit next 3 sts. Knit 3 sts from cable needle.
W&T: Move working yarn to opposite side of work (if you are knitting move the yarn to the front and if you are purling move the yarn to the back), slip the next st to the right needle, again move the yarn to the opposite side of work (if you are knitting move the yarn to the back and if you are purling move the yarn to the front), return the slipped st to the left needle and turn your work.
K next st tog with wrap: From front of work (the knit side), insert tip of right needle into the wrap and the stitch at the same time, sliding sts onto right needle. Transfer both the wrap and st to the left needle and knit them together.
P next st tog with wrap: From the back of work (the knit side), insert the tip of the right needle into the wrap and pull it up onto the left needle. Purl it together with the st it was wrapped around.
C6F: Transfer next 3 sts to cable needle and hold them in front of work. Knit next 3 sts. Knit 3 sts from cable needle.
C6B: Transfer next 3 sts to cable needle and hold them in back of work. Knit next 3 sts. Knit 3 sts from cable needle.
W&T: Move working yarn to opposite side of work (if you are knitting move the yarn to the front and if you are purling move the yarn to the back), slip the next st to the right needle, again move the yarn to the opposite side of work (if you are knitting move the yarn to the back and if you are purling move the yarn to the front), return the slipped st to the left needle and turn your work.
K next st tog with wrap: From front of work (the knit side), insert tip of right needle into the wrap and the stitch at the same time, sliding sts onto right needle. Transfer both the wrap and st to the left needle and knit them together.
P next st tog with wrap: From the back of work (the knit side), insert the tip of the right needle into the wrap and pull it up onto the left needle. Purl it together with the st it was wrapped around.
NOTE: When knitting the brim and cabled band of this hat, you will be slipping the first st of each row purl-wise, and knitting the last st. This will create a nice edge that looks similar to a crocheted chain. This edge will make it easier to see where to sew when assembling your hat. It will also make it easier to pick up the sts for the crown.
Brim
With smaller straight or circular needles, CO 30 sts.
Row 1: P.
Row 2 (W&T row): Sl 1 pw, k22, W&T, p16, W&T, k16, k next st tog with wrap, k6.
Row 3: Sl 1 pw, p22, p next st tog with wrap, p5, k1.
Row 4: Sl 1 pw, k to end of row.
Row 5: Sl 1 pw, p to 1 st from end of row, k1.
Repeat rows 2 thru 5, until you've worked 35 W&T rows. If you turn the brim to the wrong side, you'll be able to see the little bumps where you've work the W&T. This makes it easy to count. You should end up with 35 of those rows. BO. With RS together, and holding the CO and BO edges together, sew the back brim seam. Set the brim aside.
Cabled Band
With larger straight or circular needles, CO 28 sts.
Row 1 & all odd rows: Sl 1 pw, p to last st, k1.
Row 2: Sl 1 pw, k to end of row.
Row 4 (first cable row): Sl 1 pw, k1, C6F, k6, C6F, k8.
Rows 6 & 8: Sl 1 pw, k to end of row.
Row 10 (second cable row): Sl 1 pw, k7, C6B, k6, C6B, k2.
Rows 12 & 14: Sl 1 pw, k to end of row.
Work rows 4 thru 15 until you've worked 13 of each of the cable rows.
Then work rows 4 thru 13. BO. With RS together, and holding the CO and BO edges together, sew the back cabled band seam.
Hat Crown
With dpns, pick up 84 sts along one edge of the cabled band.
Rnd 1: K, placing a st marker at the beginning of round.
Rnd 2: (K12, k2tog) repeat around.
Rnd 3: K
Rnd 4: (K11, k2tog) repeat around.
Rnd 5: K
Rnd 6: (K10, k2tog) repeat around.
Rnd 7: (K9, k2tog) repeat around.
Continue decreasing in this manner, knitting one less st before the dec each rnd, until 12 sts remain.
Next rnd: K2tog around. Break yarn, leaving 8". Using a tapestry needle thread yarn through remaining 6 sts. Pull tightly and fasten off.
Finishing: With RS tog, sew opposite edge of the cabled band to one edge of the brim. The cabled band is slightly wider so you'll need to ease it onto the band evenly. Fold the band in half, WS tog, and whip stitch it over the inside seam. Weave in ends.
ABBREVIATION KEY:
BO = bind off
CO = cast on
Dec = decrease
Dpn = double point needles
K = knit
K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
P = purl
Rnd = round
RS = right side(s)
Sl 1 pw = At the beginning of every row, with the yarn in front of work, slip one st, move yarn to back.
St(s) = stitch(es)
St st = stockinette stitch
Tog = together
WS = wrong side(s)
Brim
With smaller straight or circular needles, CO 30 sts.
Row 1: P.
Row 2 (W&T row): Sl 1 pw, k22, W&T, p16, W&T, k16, k next st tog with wrap, k6.
Row 3: Sl 1 pw, p22, p next st tog with wrap, p5, k1.
Row 4: Sl 1 pw, k to end of row.
Row 5: Sl 1 pw, p to 1 st from end of row, k1.
Repeat rows 2 thru 5, until you've worked 35 W&T rows. If you turn the brim to the wrong side, you'll be able to see the little bumps where you've work the W&T. This makes it easy to count. You should end up with 35 of those rows. BO. With RS together, and holding the CO and BO edges together, sew the back brim seam. Set the brim aside.
Cabled Band
With larger straight or circular needles, CO 28 sts.
Row 1 & all odd rows: Sl 1 pw, p to last st, k1.
Row 2: Sl 1 pw, k to end of row.
Row 4 (first cable row): Sl 1 pw, k1, C6F, k6, C6F, k8.
Rows 6 & 8: Sl 1 pw, k to end of row.
Row 10 (second cable row): Sl 1 pw, k7, C6B, k6, C6B, k2.
Rows 12 & 14: Sl 1 pw, k to end of row.
Work rows 4 thru 15 until you've worked 13 of each of the cable rows.
Then work rows 4 thru 13. BO. With RS together, and holding the CO and BO edges together, sew the back cabled band seam.
Hat Crown
With dpns, pick up 84 sts along one edge of the cabled band.
Rnd 1: K, placing a st marker at the beginning of round.
Rnd 2: (K12, k2tog) repeat around.
Rnd 3: K
Rnd 4: (K11, k2tog) repeat around.
Rnd 5: K
Rnd 6: (K10, k2tog) repeat around.
Rnd 7: (K9, k2tog) repeat around.
Continue decreasing in this manner, knitting one less st before the dec each rnd, until 12 sts remain.
Next rnd: K2tog around. Break yarn, leaving 8". Using a tapestry needle thread yarn through remaining 6 sts. Pull tightly and fasten off.
Finishing: With RS tog, sew opposite edge of the cabled band to one edge of the brim. The cabled band is slightly wider so you'll need to ease it onto the band evenly. Fold the band in half, WS tog, and whip stitch it over the inside seam. Weave in ends.
ABBREVIATION KEY:
BO = bind off
CO = cast on
Dec = decrease
Dpn = double point needles
K = knit
K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
P = purl
Rnd = round
RS = right side(s)
Sl 1 pw = At the beginning of every row, with the yarn in front of work, slip one st, move yarn to back.
St(s) = stitch(es)
St st = stockinette stitch
Tog = together
WS = wrong side(s)
Copyright November 2008 - Lamb’s Ear Designs. All Rights Reserved.
Please respect our copyright. Thank you.
1 comment:
Glad to find this here. I purchased and knit this pattern a few years ago, and was contacted about it on Ravelry. I see someone else has designed something similar. Glad to see you've made it available again! Betty (Kilmurray on Ravelry).
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